Division Human factors

The production of this cheese is known to date back to the early Middle ages, as evidenced by a stone sculpture in an old feudal chapel in the middle of the Forez mountains. The ‘Hautes Chaumes’ is home to mountain pasture buildings known as ‘jasseries’, which are found at higher altitude than permanent habitats, above 1 200 m, and which testify to the pastoral activity on which the traditional production of this cheese was based. This production process fitted into a very specific economic and social system which lasted until the middle of the 20th century. In the spring, the modest-sized herds were led to the summer pastures, thus freeing up the village meadows, which were used to produce hay for winter fodder. Tending the animals, making the cheese and herding the cows were the sole preserve of women, who lived up on the mountains for part of the year, while the men stayed down in the villages to produce hay and carry out the harvesting. After demoulding, the cheeses were placed on draining racks made of coniferous wood (hollowed-out half trunks) that fitted the shape of the cheeses.

Farmers have continued to use grass as the staple feed for the dairy cows to the present day. Production techniques evolved as output increased in the early 20th century but practices common to all producers and specific expertise have been preserved. The production of ‘Fourme d’Ambert’ still relies on this specific expertise. The curd is cut into pieces the size of maize grains, which are then stirred to cover them with a thin film that prevents the grains sticking together after moulding. Before the curd is moulded it is first drained on a conveyor, which allows some of the whey to be separated without the grains being crushed. After moulding, the curd is drained by turning without pressing to allow discharge of the whey while preserving the cavities previously created in the cheese. The salting helps to complete the draining process. When the cheese is firm enough, after at least four days, it is pierced in order to create air inlets that allow oxygen to penetrate the cheese. During the maturing stage temperature and humidity are controlled to allow the rind to form and the growth of Penicillium roqueforti to be managed.