# Commission Implementing Regulation (EU) 2015/48 of 14 January 2015 entering a name in the register of protected designations of origin and protected geographical indications [Vinagre de Montilla-Moriles (PDO)], Division 5.3: Causal link between the geographical area and the quality or characteristics of the product (for PDO) or a specific quality, the reputation or other characteristic of the product (for PGI)

Extent: E+W+S+N.I.

The alcoholic content of 15 % vol. or more of the wine used as the raw material gives typical wine and alcohol notes.
The traditional ageing systems, known as ‘criaderas y solera’ or ‘añada’ (vintage), create decisive differences in the aromatic complexity of the protected vinegars, which are manifested in their analytical and organoleptic properties, such as high acetoin, higher-alcohol and ester contents.
The temperatures in the ‘Vinagre de Montilla-Moriles’ PDO cellars allow slow oxidation of the components of the vinegar. The relative humidity affects the evaporation of the different components through the wood, mainly water, alcohol and acetic acid, and favours the concentration of the components of the vinegar.
Since the casks are never new, components are transferred from the wood fairly slowly, the transfer of tannins is reduced and vanilla aromas are more subtle. In addition, because they have for years contained wines, the pores of the casks have become slightly clogged up, making oxidative ageing slower and reducing the loss of aromas.
Tannins, quercitrin, hemicellulose and lignin pass from the wood to the vinegar, strengthening its persistence in the mouth, modifying its dry extract and its acidity and darkening its colour, producing the tones that characterise the product and imparting aromas characteristic of the wood. Various chemical compounds in the vinegar oxidise slowly, their rate of reaction depending on the porosity of the wood.
The esterification and combination of various chemical compounds is promoted, acetoin levels are very high, especially in vinegars aged using the ‘criaderas y solera’ system and the formation of aromatic compounds is favoured, particularly ethyl acetate, the higher alcohols and their derivatives, aldehydes, esters and ethers.
Certain components, in particular water, evaporate, which leads to a significant concentration of certain components, such as ash, amino acids, acetic acid, etc. This concentration is particularly significant in sweet vinegars and so the ash and dry-extract contents are much higher than in dry vinegars.

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Source: https://www.legislation.gov.uk/eur/2015/48/annex/division/SINGLE/division/5/division/5.3 (the official version)
Page: https://openlegislation.uk/eu-regulation-2015-48/annex/division-SINGLE/division-5/division-5.3
Contains public sector information licensed under the Open Government Licence v3.0. Source: legislation.gov.uk, The National Archives.